The following steps are used to create a pattern that some woodworkers have described as a "kaleidoscope" pattern. I did not invent this design, but I have enjoyed making end grain cutting boards using it. Although I have seen some posts with incomplete descriptions of the process, I haven't found a step-by-step description.
Random widths of a variety of 8/4 lumber are used. Thin 1/8" strips of ash are inserted between the dark species and 1/8" strips of sapele are placed between the light species. A panel that is 20" or more wide, 16" long, and 2" thick is glued up.
The panel is flattened with a drum sander and then ripped into 1.75" wide pieces with the table saw.
The pieces are arranged as desired and are then each rotated 90 degrees. A 1/8" strip of ash is placed between each rotated piece, and the panel is glued up.
The panel is flattened with a drum sander. It is optional to rip and rotate one more time before making angled rip cuts. I elected to proceed with angled cuts without this additional step in order to avoid my strips looking too "busy." With the table saw set at a 78-degree angle, the panel is ripped into 1.75" wide strips. The strips are arranged as desired and rotated 90 degrees. For this illustrative design, I chose to have half of the strips leaning left and the other half leaning right. I placed a wedge in the middle. The wedge has matching 78-degree bevels on each side.
1/8" strips of ash are inserted between each piece, and the panel is glued up.The panel is flattened with a drum sander. The panel is then cross-cut using a table saw sled and/or table saw fence. The width of the cuts determines the thickness of the final end-grain board.
Two strips can be rotated and aligned to create a central "bowtie" or "diamond."
I made a hard maple end-grain board that had the same thickness as the kaleidoscope detail strips and bisected it. The detail strips were placed in the middle. I used strips of end-grain sapele for the border. I have found it most convenient to make an end-grain board of sapele with the same thickness of the boards and to then cut the necessary border strips from this board.
Juice grooves enhance the usefulness of the board, and they add to the aesthetic appeal.
Recesses routered into the bottom on each end make the board easier to lift. Rubber feet are secured to each bottom corner with stainless steel screws.
An alternative to using two strips for detail is to make an entire board of kaleidoscope strips.
